Heritage turkeys are physically different from regular turkeys. The heritage birds are well-proportioned, but not close to the curvy breast standard. They have prominent, humpy breast bones and their sinewy drumsticks point straight ahead. Sometimes a few dark pin feathers poke out here and there on the wild birds.

Heritage turkeys are smaller and have darker meat. richer, more intense flavor, and firmer texture than the domestic turkey. Heritage birds frequently have an even balance of light to dark meat. The almond-light meat of the wild and heritage turkeys contrasts with their dark meat, which is the color of cappuccino. The meat's texture is firm, with a good chew, but in no way tough. It is rich flavored, succulent and juicy.

The breast tends to cook faster than legs or thighs, larding the breast with bacon, or covering the breast with foil, and basting the whole bird with butter or oil and cooking liquid is recommended by some. Wild turkey must not be overcooked because it can become dry. Other chefs suggest not covering the birds with foil or they will steam, not roast.

Roasting guidelines: 6 to 16 pounds, 15 to 20 minutes per pound. Over 16 pounds, 12 to 15 minutes per pound.

In addition, unlike typical store-bought turkeys, heritage turkeys have thick, tight skin, and the muscular flesh is resistant to the push of a finger. One cooking suggestion is to rub the turkeys with butter, stuff them with herbs only, and roast them.

Author and Cook William Rubel (www.williamrubel.com) recommends:

• If you cover the breast, stick with the traditional oiled paper or with the cotton cloth dipped in unsalted oil as recommended by the 1960's edition of the "Joy of Cooking."
• Do not use aluminum foil. Foil doesn't let any moisture out. It traps the moisture in the breast so that the breast cooks by steaming. This affects flavor. When you let water molecules escape through a covering of paper, or cloth, the flesh of the bird is chemically changed in a way that is different from what happens through steaming -- which is the effect of sealing the breast with aluminum foil.
• To cover the breast, cut out a piece of brown paper from a shopping bag, rub it with cooking oil, and tie it in place with cotton string. Alternatively, use the "Joy of Cooking" method and soak a piece of cotton cloth in unsalted oil, such as corn oil. Remove the covering about 30 minutes before the turkey is done so the breast will brown.
• In my own cooking style I do not cover the breast. Instead, I add additional fat to the breast meat by slipping fat, like butter or olive oil, under the skin over the breast. This is a method I use with all birds, except for duck. It makes the birds self-basting. If, along with the fat, you add under the skin of the breast crushed garlic, lemon, and herbs along with a little salt you are able to introduce additional flavors into the bird. It is also possible to work the oil and optional flavorings under the skin up over the thigh and leg.
• Another important factor is that the turkey should not be over-cooked. I recommend roasting the turkey to a temperature that is significantly lower than the current custom. If you cook your bird to 140F you will help insure that the meat is moist.